Not always do the swell, the weather, the wind and my days off line up around here, but one such day was last Thursday, Thanksgiving no less! The surf was pumping and offering up triple overhead peaks, which had the Coast Guard out practicing big wave survival handling. It was a humbling paddle out, between my mind racing about what was waiting for once I made it outside and the giant white water walls trying to send me back to the beach.
At about 11:15 am, as the swell was peaking and the tide still dropping, I nabbed the wave of my life. The giant left hander somehow came to me and there was nothing else I could do, but GO. I hardly hard to adjust my line as I dropped in and raced down the line to the inside shoulder. It was a speed blur of adrenaline and focus. I knew after I made the final section that it was the wave of my life. Photo credits to Dan Dedina who captured the sequence. Big shout out to John Carper, renowned shaper for his trusty 7'2"
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that he sold me.
At about 11:15 am, as the swell was peaking and the tide still dropping, I nabbed the wave of my life. The giant left hander somehow came to me and there was nothing else I could do, but GO. I hardly hard to adjust my line as I dropped in and raced down the line to the inside shoulder. It was a speed blur of adrenaline and focus. I knew after I made the final section that it was the wave of my life. Photo credits to Dan Dedina who captured the sequence. Big shout out to John Carper, renowned shaper for his trusty 7'2"
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sounds great! Hopefully not the last 'wave of your life' though. I am sure there will be more of those to come, expecially when you have some time off.
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